4 TRAVELLING FAMILIES

Staying overnight in Japan? How to find accommodation with the enormous variety in this fascinating country? We opted for a mix: from tiny hotel rooms to a stay in typical tourist hotels, traditional Japanese houses, a youth hostel and a Ryokan. Find out more in this blog!

Read here the Dutch version of this blog.

Tips to find accommodation in Japan

Planning your Japanese trip yourself? Where to start in finding a place to stay overnight? There is a huge variety of accommodation in Japan, for every type of traveler, budget or luxury. b

While mapping out our travel route, I read and heard that Japan is known for its small hotel rooms. Not ideal for a 3 week trip with a family of six. So, I started looking for other, more ‘off the beaten track’ options

In this blog I give you an overview of our accommodation, with some basic rules to start with. Handy to keep these in mind before booking.

• First, establish your itinerary. Where do you want to go? Are you only visiting the major cities or also exploring some villages in the Japanese countryside? Depending on your itinerary, you can start planning your transportation. In Japan, the easiest way to travel is by train. You can purchase a JR Pass before your departure to Japan. This pass is specifically designed for tourists. You can buy it online one month before your arrival in Japan. You don’t need a voucher then. The big advantage of buying the pass online? You can reserve all your train rides and your seats upfront and easily manage, cancel or change your bookings.
• Choose hotels that are close to a train station. Keep in mind that you will usually travel with luggage. In most hotels, you can ‘forward’ your luggage, but that’s not so easy if you are in self-catering. So, between major cities, you’ll usually be dragging a suitcase or backpack with you. If you don’t want to rely on taxis all the time, it’s handy if your hotel is just a short walk from the train station. Be sure to pay attention in cities. In Tokyo for example, there are many stations on the famous JR ‘Yamanote’ line. You’ll find many hotels near this line. However, some accommodation seem to be close to these stations, but in reality still require an additional train connection or taxi. Fine for the first time, but after a few times, you’ll probably have enough of it, in particular if you want to explore the city in the evening. So, double-check carefully where your hotel is located!
• Decide in advance whether you want to stay in modern or rmore traditional accommodations. Japan has many modern hotels, but staying in a Ryokan or a traditional Japanese house is definitely recommended if you want to experience the authentic Japanese atmosphere.
• Go for a variety of accommodations. Hotel rooms in Japan are usually small – luggage under the bed! – so it’s not easy for a trip of several weeks, especially since most hotels in the cities don’t have terraces or gardens to relax in. Spending a few nights in a house, a hostel, or a Ryokan can be an option then.
• Do you prefer self-catering or a hotel? If you opt for self-catering, you’ll end up again with a house or a hostel.
• The toiletries in all accommodations were excellent: very good shampoos and shower gels, alongside the usual toothbrushes, combs, and slippers. In Japan, it’s customary to leave your shoes at the door. Typical also: mostly, you can use a set of pyjamas for free, of course to be returned after your stay.
• In all apartments and houses, you usually find a washing machine, sometimes even combined with a dryer, including detergents. In a hostel, their use is shared.

Our accommodation

We traveled from Tokyo to Hiroshima, Kyoto, and Osaka, after which we headed, via Takayama and Matsumoto in the Japanese Alps to the Kiso Valley. We then stayed for a few days in Fujikawagachiko at the foot of Mt. Fuji before traveling back to Tokyo.

So, we combined several major cities with a stay in the Japanese Alps, the Kiso Valley, and at the foot of Mt. Fuji. Which in reality meant smaller … cities.

Moreover, I wanted a variety of accommodations. We combined the following lodgings:

• standard tourist hotel (Matsumoto)
• business hotel (Tokyo)
• apartments (Tokyo, Hiroshima, and Osaka)
• ryokan (Nakatsugawa)
• youth hostel (Takayama)
• Japanese houses (Kyoto and Fujikawaguchiko …)

We experienced small Japanese accommodations in the cities, traditional Japanese culture in the villages and spacious Japanese houses. Well, space is perhaps a big word: often smaller than in Europe, but still enough space.

Tourist hotel

By a tourist hotel, I mean a traditional hotel where most tourists stay. The rooms are fairly large, by Japanese standards, with a separate bathroom. You can have breakfast – with or without extra charge – and often there is also an onsen or other sports facilities which hotel guests can use for free.

Our choice:

Matsumoto: Tabino hotel: a decent hotel just a few minutes’ walk from Matsumoto station and about 20 minutes from the famous Matsumoto Castle. This hotel promises ‘Services to make you happy’ on their website, and they indeed deliver: you are warmly welcomed, and the service is excellent.

We stayed in 2 spacious rooms, a double room, and a corner room for 4 people. We paid extra for the generous buffet breakfast, with a varied and delicious Japanese (Shinshu) and international cuisine.

The usual toiletries are included, even free pyjamas.

The hotel also has an onsen which guests can use for free.

Business hotel

These hotels aim at people on business trips but also at tourists. The rooms are often very small, and you sometimes cannot get breakfast there.

The advantage? These hotels are often located centrally.

The hotel chain ‘Apa’, with more than 300 hotels in Japan, offers an excellent price-quality ratio with usually an great location, close to stations and near many dining options.

In Tokyo, we chose the three-star Apa Hotel Akihabara Ekihigashi, a rather last-minute decision. Very small rooms, an experience in itself: you watch TV from your bed and can only store your luggage under the bed. But otherwise: all usual comforts, including complimentary pyjamas.

And as a big plus, only a a few minutes’ walk from ‘Akihabara Station’ on the Yamanote line with many good dining options nearby.

Our first days were spent in an apartment in Tokyo (see below), opposite another APA, APA hotel Keisei Ueno Ekimae. This one is also very centrally located next to the JR Ueno Station and you can have breakfast there.

Apartments

We opted to stay in an apartment in Tokyo, Hiroshima, and Osaka. The main reason: space for a family of 6. Although, space might not be the word to describe an apartment in Japan.

Most apartments have a small open kitchen (sink, microwave, stove, kettle, fridge) with a dining table and some Western chairs, all in the same space as the bedroom. Sometimes there are also two separate bedrooms, depending on your preference.

In addition, there is a separate bathroom (often with shower in the bath) and a separate toilet. The bathroom usually has a combination washer and dryer, with accompanying laundry products.

We were satisfied with the following accommodations:

Tokyo: Aima aparthotel located just a few minutes’ walk from the centrally located and rather quiet Ueno station (JR line). This hotel is located somewhat outside the city but is an ideal starting point for exploring Tokyo.

Nice room with a separate kitchenette, bathroom, and toilet. Nearby are numerous museums and the famous Ueno Park.

You can easily find something to eat in the lively street market, Ameya-Yokocho, about 10 linutes walk. Especially nice in the evening, with many food stalls and cozy restaurants, where you mingle with the locals as a tourist.

Around the corner is a 7-eleven. The hotel does not offer breakfast, but you can have breakfast at the APA hotel across the street (with additional charge).

Hiroshima: FAV HOTEL Hiroshima Heiwa Odori, a new, modern hotel, centrally located between the station, the downtown area and the peace park, near many dining options.

We got a room on the 6th floor, overlooking the city. The room wasn’t large, but due to the original way the beds were set up, it provided sufficient space. The apartment had a separate kitchenette and bathroom, also equipped with a washing machine. And we got a great view on the city as a bonus.

At FAV, you can buy snacks like pizza, but there’s no breakfast available.

Osaka: a real apartment, RakutenSTAY x Shamaison Osaka Dekijima – 304, with a larger kitchen and 2 bedrooms. Neat and tidy.

This seemed to be close to Universal Studios, but in the end, we needed 2 train connections to get there. It was the first time we chose to stay in a hostel.

Youth hostel

It’s the first time we stayed in a youth hostel.

I opted for K’s House Takayama Oasis in Takayama.

K’s House is a well-known chain and one of the best hostels in Japan. This chain has multiple accommodations across Japan, including another one in Takayama, always in touristy places.

Their motto is ‘comfortable and friendly hostels across Japan’. We only tried one and I can definitely recommend it. You can book accommodation in a dormitory or a double room with a private bathroom, in Western or Japanese style.

K’s House in Takayama is a very clean, quiet place with a nice lounge and a fully equipped kitchen.

We opted for three double rooms with individual bathrooms, one larger than the other. The staff is super friendly and happy to provide information to explore the area.

The kitchen is spotless, you can use it freely and eat quietly in the lounge. There’s also a sort of ‘rooftop terrace’.

The accommodation is just a few minutes’ walk from the station and next to the bus stop.

The onsen at the Takayama Green Hotel is on walking distance.

Traditional Japanse houses

Looking for unique accommodation in Japan? Then stay in authentic Japanese houses.

We booked a traditional Kyo-Machiya townhouse in Kyoto and stayed in a more traditional Fuji Travel House in Fujikawaguchiko. An ideal Japanese living experience and spacious too.

In Kyoto, I chose the Rinn Fushimini Inari townhouse.

Rinn Fushimini Inari is a traditional Kyoto townhouse, based on the concept of ‘Cool Kyoto’. The townhouse exudes luxury: fine traditional Japanese furniture and luxurious bedding, inspired by the nearby torii gates of the beautiful Fushimini Inri Shrine according to the website.

The house accommodates up to 7 guests. On the ground floor, there’s an entrance hall – ideal for leaving your luggage and shoes – a mini kitchen (with fridge and microwave), a Japanese-style living room with tatami mats, a low table, flat-screen TV, a small Western-style lounge area with a sofa, a bathroom (with washing machine), and even a real Japanese garden. There’s also a washing machine in the bathroom. And of course, slippers: no shoes in a traditional house.

The garden is tiny, the smallest I’ve ever seen. You can stand in it, and that’s about it. But it adds some atmosphere to the house.

Upstairs, there are 2 bedrooms (one in Western style with 2 double beds, the other with 3 futon beds). The beds are made up, and there are complimentary pajamas and bath products. There’s also WiFi throughout the house.

In Fujikawaguchiko, I came across the Fuji Travel House, a Japanese-style house in traditional style, via booking.com.

This fairly modern Japanese house accommodates up to 9 guests. It has 2 bedrooms, one with 2 single beds and one with 6 futons and 1 sofa bed.

There’s a living room with a fully equipped open kitchen, a bathroom, a washing machine, a flat-screen TV, and a terrace with views of Mt. Fuji. The holiday home provides bedding and towels. There’s also free WiFi and air conditioning in the house.

The house is quite large. Moreover, it has a large open kitchen, with both Japanese and international kitchenware, which is handy. Eating cornflakes with chopsticks is not always so convenient.

In the evening, you can see people hiking up Mt. Fuji from the terrace of the bedroom.

Ryokan

A Ryokan is the Japanese family hotel or inn in traditional Japanese style. The first Ryokans date back to the so-called Edo period (1603-1868). At that time, the Ryokans offered travelers a room with mats and a communal bath.

In a Ryokan, you usually find traditional furniture, similar to the Japanese house Rinn Fushimini Inari that we booked: low furniture and futons, thin mattresses. You pull them out when you go to sleep, otherwise, you can just sit in the room. Usually, a Ryokan (only) serve typical Japanese meals and sometimes there’s even an onsen.

We stayed in a modern Ryokan O. in Nagatsukawa.

This Ryokan is just a few minutes’ walk from the station. It’s seems a crossing between a yoiuth hostel and a traditional Japanese hotel.

It’s very neat and offers double rooms in Japanese style (futon beds). On the ground floor, there’s a cozy seating area and bar. The Ryokan offers only very limited (Japanese) breakfast. For a more Western breakfast, lunch, or dinner, you need to go the town. The owners can give you tips. There’s also a large supermarket about a 10-minute walk away.

In Magome or Tsumago, you can also stay in a traditional Ryokan. You can find more information at the Tourist Information Center of Magome andTsumago. There’s also a great hike between these two ancient postal villages.

Onsen

You’ve probably heard of traditional Japanese hot springs, the Japanese onsen. There are more than 3000 onsens in Japan, whether or not in a hotel.

The Tabino hotel in Matsumoto had an onsen, but we didn’t try it out.

We did visit two other onsen, without staying overnight.

If you have the chance to book an overnight stay at a traditional onsen resort, that’s definitely recommended.

In the Japanese Alps, we visited the beautiful onsen resort Hirayu no mori, located in the Chubusangaku National Park and the most historic part of Okuhida-Onsengo.

I really liked this onsen. There are several baths – 8 for men and 8 for women. There’s a large indoor bath next to many smaller outdoor baths, such as the one with milky white water that is rare in Hirayu Onsen.

All baths are directly fed from the source and are scattered throughout the forest. There’s also a sauna, but I didn’t try it, as it was already hot enough outside. The whole complex exudes a traditional Japanese atmosphere, which you feel from the moment you enter.

The baths reminded me a bit of the Blue Lagoon in Iceland but cozier, given the smaller size of the various baths and the more intimate atmosphere of the complex.

In Takayama, at the Hida Takayama Green Hotel, you have the Tenryo no Yu onsen. If you don’t have much time and want to stay in a modern hotel, this is an option. I did miss the beautiful view and traditional architecture of the bathhouse in the Japanese Alps.

The hotel has two onsen facilities, one on the ground floor and one on the first floor. I opted for the one on the first floor.

This onsen also features a large indoor bath alongside 2 smaller outdoor baths, located in a small garden. One of the outdoor baths has a scent of cypress, while the other is a rock bath.

You can read here more on Japanse onsen and the particular onsen etiquette.

Interest in some hike? Then read our blogpost on the spendid hike from Magome to Tsumago.